BEER BROWNIES

I know this sounds a little weird, ok, a lot weird, but these are some awesome brownies. And anyway, it's not like I'm pouring PBR into my brownie mix. The trick is in using a dark, malty beer you like that already has some desserty characteristics. Toasty, bready, toffee, coffee, chocolate flavors come to mind, and you can go a little crazy with the possibilities (could you imagine coffee porter brownies??). I chose to use the Bruery's Rugbrod (don't worry if you can't pronounce it, apparently the brewers can't either), a toasty, spicy, Christmas-y Danish Rye ale that gave the brownies a lightness belied by their fudginess. It sounds contradictory, fudgy yet light, but the bubbles appear to be working their magic. To put an exclamation point on the spiciness I added a pinch of cayenne and cinnamon, just for a hint lingering in the background, and lightly sprinkled halved walnuts on top for their toasty, nutty goodness. I love how rustic the scattered walnuts look on top of the brownies, plus they add a lovely crunch. Enjoy!




3 ½ oz dark chocolate (70% cocoa and up)

1 tablespoon instant espresso

8 tablespoons of butter
4 eggs, at room temp

1 cup white sugar

1 cup brown sugar, packed

1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (I used Valrhona)

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1 cup flour
2 teaspoons vanilla paste (or extract)

1/2 cup malty beer (I used the Bruery's Rugbrod, a Danish Rye Beer, but a Belgian Quad, a Stout, or a Porter would work)

1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

1 cup walnuts, halved and toasted lightly

Preheat oven to 350 and pop in the walnuts until just toasted, about 5 minutes. Sift together the flour, spices, and cocoa powder. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate, instant espresso and butter in a bowl over boiling water, add the beer and stir to combine, then let cool. Beat together the eggs and sugar until thick and shiny. Continue beating on low while adding flour mixture and wet ingredients alternatively. Finish with the vanilla. Do not over mix. Fold in the chips. Pour into a buttered and floured 9 x 13 pan and sprinkle the walnuts on top. Bake for 30-35 minutes.

EASTER CHOCOLATE

Easter is just around the corner and Passover is today, so it's time to load up on the celebratory goodies. Compartes Chocolatier, while still doing their beautiful truffles, offers seasonal favorites dipped in their luxurious chocolate. Peeps, Matzo (!), the classic chocolate rabbit, it's all old school favorites this week. I just really really hope I get an Easter basket filled with Jonathan's treats this year. Happy Ending Chocolate, also a LA based chocolatier, is the adult antidote to the Easter Bunny, keeping it sexy with their slim eight piece chocolate box, reminiscent of a vintage cigarette case. Colorful, bright, and utilizing exotic flavors, Happy Ending chocolates are a unique finish to any meal, or a lovely indulgence when you just feel like it. I have to say, the milk chocolate truffles were my favorite, especially the Two Tone, a caramel ganache with fleur de sel and a little aged rum. I'm not usually a fan of liquor in my sweets, but this one is in perfect balance. On the sweet side and with a subtle kick of the rum, it's perfect for when you only need a bite. Enjoy!

Dark Chocolate and the flaky crunch of simple matzo is a surprisingly awesome combo. L'chaim!

Peeps! If you went to summer camps like mine, you remember these from playing sudden death rounds of chubby bunny.

Hand painted and decorated, this is such a prettier bunny than the ones I used to gnaw on as a kid.

I love the sexy east meets west vibe of the packaging of Happy Ending.

The Two Tone, lovely blend of caramel, milk chocolate, rum, and sea salt. Yum!
The delicate designs pop beautifully against the dark chocolate ganache.

KITCHY LIKES

In my heart of hearts, I'm a history nerd. I took so many history credits in college that I accidentally became a double major. I always gravitated to the classes that had a good hook: History of European Aristocracy (a view from the top of western politics from the 17th century onward, we sat around and gossiped about Georgiana of Devonshire or Louis Mountbatten as if they were alive and cavorting today), The Philosophical history of Fascism (chronically the journey to political crazytown starting with Kant), and the dark horse, History of Ancient Rome. It had a lot going for it: An adorable 28 year old visiting Professor who lived in Echo Park, spoke Latin and Italian, and had a pet cat. He had elbow pads on his blazers! Gah! Too cute! To distract myself from the fact that he had a girlfriend, I read the main textbook he assigned, a Roman Art History book. His idea was that supplemented with original texts an art history book would give a greater cultural context to the happenings of Rome, more so than just reading Suetonius or Tacitus exclusively. "Shut up, nerd! What does this have to do with food?" you ask...

Ancient Roman Food History is what I'm getting at.

Sally Granger is bad ass. A trained pastry chef, she took an interest in classical civilization and earned a degree in ancient history from the University of London. Combining her professional skills with her study of the culinary heritage of the Greek and Roman world, she now pursues a career as a food historian(!), consultant, and historical reenactor. She recently put on an ancient Greek banquet for the Guild of Food Writers in London and a Roman reception and tasting at the Museum of London to celebrate the exhibition High Street Londinium. She demonstrates ancient cooking skills at Roman sites around the United Kingdom for English Heritage and at Butser Ancient Farm, a reconstructed Iron Age farm and laboratory for experimental archaeology. Along with her husband, Christopher Grocock, Sally translated the ancient Roman Cookbook, Apicius, into English. Food historian. Best. Job. Ever.

Through my rabid food history googling, I came across Ms. Grainger's translation of Apicius, as well as an accompanying cookbook, Cooking Apicius, and was instantly hooked. Apicius is a 4th century collection of Roman recipes, completely unique to others existing at that time. The first to exhibit recipes outside of the narrative form (most recipes were part of or a foot note to an epic poem or story), Apicius shares similarities to how cookbooks like The Joy of Cooking exist today. The book is displayed like a high school Romeo and Juliet, with the modern English on the right and the Latin on the left. Though the recipes are engrossing, Grainger and Grocock's introduction is my favorite part of the book. Over 100 pages long, it examines the context in which Apicius was written, collected, and translated over the centuries. Their analysis of ancient Roman culture and the early "foodies" is fascinating:

"The phenomenon of the amateur cook is a familiar one today: we all dabble in the kitchen and have a basic understanding of the science behind cooking even if we have varying degrees of success with the outcome. But in the Roman world, the slave economy governed all areas of domestic labor. High-status cooking was very labor intensive and simply not to be contemplated by the gourmet who was interested in food. Cicero defined all occupations that were involved with producing physical pleasure for others as disgraceful. It is possible to imagine that a high-status gourmet might have broken through that barrier and learned how to cook for the sake of his interest, but it is not likely to have been thought socially acceptable and would surely resulted in public condemnation...The gourmet is interested in the theoretical, not practical, aspect of food before it reaches the table, and is more concerned with selecting produce, thinking up ways to enrich meat before slaughter, knowing where to get the best everything, and eating the results. The activity which takes place between selection and consumption, and which is carried out in the sooty, greasy kitchen, is simply not part of his world." (Grocock and Granger, 14)

Cooks shared more in common with prostitutes than artists and a foodie knew nothing of how their meal made it from the farm to the plate. It's almost unimaginable today, where the ability to give pleasure to others, be it through food, art, music, prose, whatever, is valued so highly, that an enthusiast of any subject would be willfully ignorant of the process behind their pursuit. But I guess that's why we study history and why I find it so fascinating. If you share my curiosity of history, culture, food, and how they influence each other, Apicius is a great resource. It's definitely on the scholarly side, and if you're more interested in cooking the food than researching it, check out Grainger's companion book, Cooking Apicius. Enjoy!

My 16 year old Latin studying brother translated the dedication as saying, "To my most faithful judge and companion."
Latin on the left, English on the right.

CUTTING THROUGH THE FAT:PORK BELLY SANDWICHES

So I guess the bacon fad has become a full blown porkapalypse. You literally can't throw a fork without hitting a pulled, braised, or smoked pork something: shoulder, belly, feet, jowels, all of the lesser known bits that are full of that slightly sweet yet savory flavor. Don't mistake my attitude for disdain. Pork is fantastic. It's the number two most consumed meat, second to goat (I know, goat??). My inner hipster comes out when I see all of my favorite restaurants suddenly add the same ingredients to their menus. Many times the fuss is hype and the fad passes quicker than that Christmas my sister wanted a furby. This time around, I have a feeling it will stick and go from fad to the norm, and hopefully create a launch pad for further meat exploration. It's stickability is due to its low cost, delicious flavor, and that liquid gold byproduct. Pork fat renders into a silky, golden ambrosia that will give flavor and girth to an otherwise milquetoast meal. Sausage, meatballs, confits, whatever it is, pork fat can usually help. So while indulging in this fad, I was always drawn to the same thing: pork belly. Pork belly is un-messed with bacon, and my experiences with it have been mixed. The pork buns at Momofuku are legendary and the perfect balance of salt, fat, and sweet, but pork belly elsewhere has proven greasy and flavorless. What to do...

Luckily, I got the Momofuku cookbook for Christmas, so I took some inspiration from Chef Chang. I seasoned the meat thoroughly and balanced it with acidic ingredients to cut the fat ruthlessly. In my American pork belly sandwich, I made my own version of an apple and mustard seed salad I enjoyed at my new favorite lunch spot, Forage, in Silver Lake. The tart granny smith, whole grain mustard, shallot, and parsley add a wonderful crunch and pop of acid that pairs beautifully with the pork. I added some arugula for that peppery back note, and a little olive oil to moisten the toasted baguette. The Bahn Mi inspired sandwich, which is a twist on the Vietnamese classic, has pork belly seasoned with five spice, ginger, and sour beer for some acid, a quick kimchi style cucumber pickle, cilantro, and grated carrot. It's basically a mutt, pulling from Vietnam, China, and Korea for its flavors. Both were delicious, and the apple salad and pickled cucumbers are completely addicting. If you don't feel like chewing through baguette, the sandwiches work as deconstructed salads too. Enjoy!

Pork Belly Bahn Mi with Spicy Cucumbers

NOTE: The pork belly can be made a day ahead of time, chilling in the fridge. The cucumbers can be made the morning of.

For 4-6 sandwiches

Ingredients:

For the Pork

1 1/2 lbs pork belly, skinless

2 tablespoons salt

1 tablespoon white sugar

1 tablespoon brown sugar

2 teaspoon ground ginger

1 1/2 teaspoon chinese five spice

1 teaspoon white pepper

2 cups Sour beer, such as The Bruery's Hottenroth (I like the snappy tartness of a Berlinerweisse, but any light bodied beer is fine)

For the Cucumbers

2 large garden cucumbers, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons salt

3 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 tablespoons sour beer (optional), I used Hottenroth by the Bruery, but any Berlinerweisse is fine.

For the Sandwiches

1 large baguette, maybe 2, halved and sliced into whatever size you want your sandwiches to be

1 bunch cilantro, leaves picked off, stems discarded

2 large carrots, grated

Mayo (optional)

Start with the pork. Mix together the dry ingredients and rub into the pork belly, brush off the excess. Put the pork belly in a snug container and pour the beer over it. Marinate for at least six hours and up to 24. Pre heat the oven to 450 F, and dry off the pork belly on some paper towels. Put the pork belly into a snug roasting pan or pyrex dish and roast for one hour, basting once half way through. Make sure it's in the center or lower rung of the oven, as the top can brown quickly. If it starts to get too dark, cover with some foil. After an hour, turn the oven down to 250 F and cook for another hour to and hour and fifteen minutes. You want the pork to be soft to the touch, but not falling apart. When it's done, take it out of the oven and cool until you can handle it, and wrap it up in plastic wrap and stick in the fridge to chill. Chilling makes it a lot easier to slice, so if you don't care about looks, you can slice right away. If you do chill it, heat up the slices in a pan for a little to warm it through.

For the cucumbers, cover the slices with half the salt and sugar and let them rest for 15 minutes. They'll leach out a little liquid, so I did this in a strainer. Place the cucumbers in a bowl with all of the other ingredients, and let them marinate for 15-30 minutes. Just try not to eat all of them before you get to the sandwiches!

Next, assemble the sandwiches. I lightly toasted the baguette, spread a tiny bit of mayo on the bread for moisture, then on the top side layered the carrot and cilantro, and on the bottom layered the pork belly then the cucumbers. Enjoy!

Pork Belly Sandwich with Apple Mustard Salad and Arugula

For 4-6 sandwiches

Ingredients:

For the Pork

1 1/2 lbs pork belly, skinless

2 tablespoons salt

1 tablespoon white sugar

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 teaspoon white pepper

For the Apple Salad

3 large granny smith apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons shallot, finely chopped

2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped

3 tablespoons whole grain mustard

For the Sandwiches

1 large baguette, maybe 2, halved and sliced into whatever size you want your sandwiches to be

1 bunch arugula

olive oil (optional)

Start with the pork. Mix together the dry ingredients and rub into the pork belly, brush off the excess. Put the pork belly in a snug container and marinate for at least six hours and up to 24. Pre heat the oven to 450 F, and dry off the pork belly on some paper towels. Put the pork belly into a snug roasting pan or pyrex dish and roast for one hour, basting once half way through. Make sure it's in the center or lower rung of the oven, as the top can brown quickly. If it starts to get too dark, cover with some foil. After an hour, turn the oven down to 250 F and cook for another hour to an hour and fifteen minutes. You want the pork to be soft to the touch, but not falling apart. When it's done, take it out of the oven and cool until you can handle it, and wrap it up in plastic wrap and stick in the fridge to chill. Chilling makes it a lot easier to slice, so if you don't care about looks, you can slice right away. If you do chill it, heat up the slices in a pan for a little to warm it through.

For the apple salad, mix everything together in a small bowl. I used my hands to distribute the mustard evenly. I must use this on a cheese platter, I'm obsessed. Anyway, to assemble the sandwiches, lightly toast the baguette and drizzle with a little olive oil. Dress the top half with the arugula and the bottom half with the pork belly then apples. Enjoy!

KITCHY EATS

Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream

Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream, based out of Columbus, Ohio, blends French patisserie technique with American farm to table sensibilities and the results are delicious. Focussing on flavor rather than sugar, each of Jeni's ice creams are hand crafted with seasonal ingredients from local purveyors or with responsibly produced exotic spices and produce. Everything going into her ice cream is top notch, so you can look forward to a delicious mouthful every time. Luckily for me, Jeni ships her ice cream domestically! Yay for a full freezer! Her ice cream hardly lasted the shoot, let alone the weekend, so I'll be replenishing soon. Enjoy!

Queen City Cayenne

The most famous of their flavors, Queen City Cayenne is a silky milk chocolate ice cream with a hint of cinnamon and a big fat punch of cayenne on the finish. The spice is surprising but addicting, and you'll find yourself spooning through a pint in no time. Look below for a recipe for my own Milk Chocolate Cayenne Ice Cream, enjoy!

Gooey Butter Cake

A mid-western staple, this cake is a Frankentstein mixture of yellow box cake batter, cream cheese, and a ton of powdered sugar. Your teeth will hurt, but you'll suffer through it for another bite. Jeni's version is soaked in a brown sugar caramel sauce and blended in a honey butter ice cream, so it's a decidedly sophisticated twist on the bake sale classic.

Roxbury Road

A sleeker version of Rocky Road, Jeni's is made with rich dark chocolate ice cream, the classic marshmallows and toasted almonds, and a ribbon of brown sugar caramel.

Wildberry Lavender

When I first bit into this, I was expecting a burst of berry tartness followed by the lavender sneaking in at the end, instead, I got citrus. Lots and lots of citrus. Which isn't a bad thing, just unexpected when you're bracing for berries and flowers. I checked the ingredient list. Orange. So the next time I took a bite, it wasn't like missing that last step on the staircase. It was bright, flavorful, and delicious. Perfect with mixed berries and stone fruit in the summertime.

Milk Chocolate Cayenne Pepper Ice Cream

8 ounces dark milk chocolate (at least 35% cacao) or a combo of semi sweet and milk, chopped


1 1/2 cups whole milk


1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup honey


pinch of salt


4 large egg yolks, lightly stirred


1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In a saucepan or double boiler, melt the chocolate. Separately, warm the sugar, honey, spices, salt and milk over medium-low heat. Taste it to make sure the spice combo is to your liking. It should taste a little too spicy because the chocolate and cream will mellow it out. Don't let it boil. Pour half of the milk mixture into the yolks, stirring to combine. Pop it all back in the milk mixture and heat until the mixture, now a custard, coats the back of a spoon. Strain it directly into the melted chocolate. Add the cream and vanilla, and stir to combine. Completely chill in the fridge then add to your ice cream machine and freeze following your manufacturers instructions. Pop in your freezer and enjoy!